Barns and fencing can be tough to choose. You want to save as much money as possible, but yet you want to choose the best possible. The barn, for one thing, should be made of good material. Metal is not always the best, because it becomes hot in summer and cold in winter. Wood is good for barns, but can easily catch fire. Brick or stone is the best for barn-building, but is very expensive. Use you better judgment in choosing the material.
As for how to build the barn, a stall must be constructed well, and must be soft enough so that if the horse rubs or bumps against it, they won't get hurt. Brick is not good for this. Often brick barns are built with padded stalls. Stone isn't too bad. Wood can cause splinters. Choose what best suits you. The stall needs to be at least 10' x 10' for one horse, but preferably 12' x 12' for comfort. A pregnant mare needs at least a 12' by 14' stall. A horse should be able to lie down in the stall and easily get back up, and should be able turn completely around without any trouble whatsoever. As for what is on the ground, dirt will be fine, but if you prefer concrete so that the stall is easier to clean, the stall must either be very thickly bedded, or must have a rubber mat for comfort. You can choose the style of the barn to your liking.
As far as fencing goes, just about anything works. Here are the general fences, on a scale of 1-10 of how good they are (1 being extremely bad and 10 being the best):
Barbwire Fence--1
Electrobraid Fence--8
Electric Fence--6
Vinyl Fence--7
Wood Fence--7
As you can see, Electrobraid is the best. They are generally cheap. You can probably find it at a livestock store. Although barbwire fence is cheap, and can often be found free, this fence is very dangerous to horses, especially horses who do not respect its barbs and therefore, its sharpness. If you do use barbwire, be sure that it is strung as tight as can be accomplished. A sagging barbwire fence will mean serious and often fatal injuries in the future. As far as size goes, an acre per horse is generally a good size. Horses love to roam and be able to run to extents untold of, so build as big as possible, with the thought in mind that a big, 40-acre pasture will provide more chance for a horse to get away from you if they are hard to catch. Use your common sense in this area.
A gate should be strong, and should not sag. Don't ever stand on a gate unless you must, and if you must, stand nearest to the hinges. Standing on gates weakens them. Use a chain or padlock for your gates, as lift-latches can often be opened by ponies or young horses.
As always, use your common sense in everything!
Friday, April 4, 2008
Brushes
The brushes you use should be of good quality, and should be used correctly.
A dandy brush is a tough brush used to remove dried mud from the body. Be very gentle with it on the legs, and never use it on the face.
A body brush is a softer brush used on the body to remove dust and dirt.
A rubber curry comb is a rubber brush with rubber pieces sticking out of a rubber base; this is used in circular motions to massage the horse and to loosen up dirt and mud.
A metal curry comb is used on the brushes, to clean them. NEVER USE ON THE HORSE.
A hoof pick is used on the hooves, to remove the stones and mud. This is very essential, as a horse's hooves not only need to be cleaned out to be rid of stones that could cause them to go lame, but they also need to be cleaned out to allow air to circulate around the frog and clefts.
A face brush is used on the face.
A soft body brush is a very soft brush that is the size of a body brush, but can be used anywhere.
A mane & tail comb are used to brush out the mane & tail.
Sponges are used for cleaning the nose, eyes, and dock area.
To brush a horse:
Use the dandy brush to remove the dried mud. Then, going in a small circular motion, brush with the rubber curry comb. Use everywhere, except for the face. Be very gentle on the legs. Use the body brush to smooth down the hair and to be rid of dust and dirt particles. Use the soft body brush in the same areas. Brush the face with the face brush, then with the soft body brush. Brush the mane and tail with the body brush, to help loosen the tangles, then brush them with the mane & tail comb. Do not forget the forelock. Large tangles will need to be loosened with your fingers. Now use the hoof pick. Starting from the frog and going downwards, remove all the dirt and stones from the horse's hoof. In order to clean a hoof, you must face your horse's hindquarters, run your hand down the leg, and pick it up, squeezing at the front of the fetlock and the tendon and pulling up at the same time. Hold the hoof with one hand, and never squat--if the horse makes a sudden move while you are squatting, you may not be able to get away in time. If the horse fights to have his hoof pick up, fight him back. For every ounce of effort he gives, give the same amount back. Don't let him get away with that. Lastly, but not least, use a damp sponge to clean out the corners of the eyes and the nostrils, and use a separate sponge to clean the dock area.
Brushing builds a relationship, because it is much like wild horses do when grooming one another. Do not be surprised if your horse turns his head and starts nibbling you--he is grooming you, too!!!
A dandy brush is a tough brush used to remove dried mud from the body. Be very gentle with it on the legs, and never use it on the face.
A body brush is a softer brush used on the body to remove dust and dirt.
A rubber curry comb is a rubber brush with rubber pieces sticking out of a rubber base; this is used in circular motions to massage the horse and to loosen up dirt and mud.
A metal curry comb is used on the brushes, to clean them. NEVER USE ON THE HORSE.
A hoof pick is used on the hooves, to remove the stones and mud. This is very essential, as a horse's hooves not only need to be cleaned out to be rid of stones that could cause them to go lame, but they also need to be cleaned out to allow air to circulate around the frog and clefts.
A face brush is used on the face.
A soft body brush is a very soft brush that is the size of a body brush, but can be used anywhere.
A mane & tail comb are used to brush out the mane & tail.
Sponges are used for cleaning the nose, eyes, and dock area.
To brush a horse:
Use the dandy brush to remove the dried mud. Then, going in a small circular motion, brush with the rubber curry comb. Use everywhere, except for the face. Be very gentle on the legs. Use the body brush to smooth down the hair and to be rid of dust and dirt particles. Use the soft body brush in the same areas. Brush the face with the face brush, then with the soft body brush. Brush the mane and tail with the body brush, to help loosen the tangles, then brush them with the mane & tail comb. Do not forget the forelock. Large tangles will need to be loosened with your fingers. Now use the hoof pick. Starting from the frog and going downwards, remove all the dirt and stones from the horse's hoof. In order to clean a hoof, you must face your horse's hindquarters, run your hand down the leg, and pick it up, squeezing at the front of the fetlock and the tendon and pulling up at the same time. Hold the hoof with one hand, and never squat--if the horse makes a sudden move while you are squatting, you may not be able to get away in time. If the horse fights to have his hoof pick up, fight him back. For every ounce of effort he gives, give the same amount back. Don't let him get away with that. Lastly, but not least, use a damp sponge to clean out the corners of the eyes and the nostrils, and use a separate sponge to clean the dock area.
Brushing builds a relationship, because it is much like wild horses do when grooming one another. Do not be surprised if your horse turns his head and starts nibbling you--he is grooming you, too!!!
Buying
I. Overview
Buying a horse can often be fairly tough. You never know what you may get, and it is best to avoid auctions if you are a novice. An auction leaves room for cheaters, and because you are only looking at the horses from the stands, you have no idea what you're bidding on. Instead, choose a horse from someone with a good reputation and who is not holding an auction.
II. Points
1. Gelding, stallion, or mare?
Obviously, if you are a novice, you will not want a stallion--no matter how gentle they are. Mares can sometimes be fractious, and so that leaves the gelding.
Geldings are certainly the best horses to be owned by novices. Mares, although still good, as mentioned in the former, can sometimes be fractious, especially when in heat. Find out from the owner what the mare is like in heat. Unfortunately, mares don't have short estrous, or heat periods. The heat period lasts from April to around August or September, so this can often be a problem, especially if you have a gelding or stallion (even geldings present a problem). Choose well.
2. How old?
For the novice, a horse 12 years or older is generally best. Around 17 or 18 years is the best, because these horses have "been there, done that." A younger horse should not be purchased until you have plenty of experience, and a horse under 4 years is dangerous to the novice.
3. How broke?
A horse for the novice should be very well broke and should have plenty hour's worth of rides on him. It is hard and often dangerous to break a young horse, and you must always be prepared for a blow-up, because green (inexperienced) horses often act up.
4. What size?
If you are an adult, size does not at all matter. For a youngster, however, you want a smaller horse, or, even better, a pony. Shetland ponies are perhaps the best ponies for young children. If you get thrown off, it is not far to the ground, and the ponies are extremely kid-friendly, to the extent that they will allow their young master to do anything with them--as long as they are kindly treated. For an adult, you should get a horse such as a Quarter Horse or Morgan. For a middle-aged child, you may want a small horse. The child would outgrow a pony too quickly. On the other hand, do not get a Quarter Horse for a small child, even though they may be gentle. The horse is simply too large for the child. The child needs something he or she can manage, and he or she cannot manage a large horse as easily as a pony their size.
5. What breed?
Breed does not really matter, but there are breeds that are generally naturally gentle, such as the Morgan, Quarter Horse, and Shetland Pony. Such breeds as Thoroughbreds and Arabians are too fractious.
6. Overall Temperament
A horse should seem very calm, but extremely alert. They should be good around other horses, because a bossy horse can be quite some trouble.
III. What You Should do Before You Buy
First, examine the horse. If you wish to have a show horse, check that the conformation is good (explained under "Conformation" in this encyclopedia). Next, touch the horse's belly, legs, head, rump, and everywhere else, to see if there are any touchy places. Open the mouth. A horse that is too touchy may not be good for a novice. Check the horse's overall health. Pinch skin between your fingers on the neck. If it springs immediately back into place, the horse has passed this test. If not, or if it springs slowly back into place, the horse may be dehydrated. If the horse allows you to open his/her mouth, press your finger against the horse's gums and take it away. The blood capillaries should immediately return to the gums. If they don't, the horse may be sick. Check for scars. Have the horse trotted toward you and away from you or have them turned in a tight, fast circle to the left and right to check for lameness. If the horse's head bobs up and down excessively, (it will go down with the injured leg and come up with the uninjured leg) have the leg checked for lameness before buying. A lame horse won't do you any good except for being a companion. You'll never be able to ride it. Then, lead the horse yourself. Turn them this way and that and back them up. If they show some resistance, they may be disrespectful and be a nuisance later. Disrespectful horses are hard to work with. Finally, see how the horse is with other horses, and with children if you plan to give it to a child. If the horse is broke, you may want to ride it. If you are allowed to do so, try walking in figure eights, trotting in figure eights, and cantering in figure eights. If you will use the horse for jumping, try jumping it. The reason figure eights are best is because it proves to you that the horse will not break out of a circle if asked not to do so. The horse should be very light on reins, and it should not take much at all for you to turn them or whoa them. Also, back them up. The turns should be cut cleanly by the horse. You should only need a loose rein on the horse, which means that when trotting, for example, the rein is really loose, and you needn't pull back on it or kick the horse, because they will continue trotting all day as long as you want them to. A horse like this is super grand.
Overall, use your good judgement to choose your horse. Don't get too excited and over-ambitious just because the horse is cheap, the breed and sex are correct, etc. It's the temperament that matters, not anything else, because you'll only be able to live with a certain temperament.
Buying a horse can often be fairly tough. You never know what you may get, and it is best to avoid auctions if you are a novice. An auction leaves room for cheaters, and because you are only looking at the horses from the stands, you have no idea what you're bidding on. Instead, choose a horse from someone with a good reputation and who is not holding an auction.
II. Points
1. Gelding, stallion, or mare?
Obviously, if you are a novice, you will not want a stallion--no matter how gentle they are. Mares can sometimes be fractious, and so that leaves the gelding.
Geldings are certainly the best horses to be owned by novices. Mares, although still good, as mentioned in the former, can sometimes be fractious, especially when in heat. Find out from the owner what the mare is like in heat. Unfortunately, mares don't have short estrous, or heat periods. The heat period lasts from April to around August or September, so this can often be a problem, especially if you have a gelding or stallion (even geldings present a problem). Choose well.
2. How old?
For the novice, a horse 12 years or older is generally best. Around 17 or 18 years is the best, because these horses have "been there, done that." A younger horse should not be purchased until you have plenty of experience, and a horse under 4 years is dangerous to the novice.
3. How broke?
A horse for the novice should be very well broke and should have plenty hour's worth of rides on him. It is hard and often dangerous to break a young horse, and you must always be prepared for a blow-up, because green (inexperienced) horses often act up.
4. What size?
If you are an adult, size does not at all matter. For a youngster, however, you want a smaller horse, or, even better, a pony. Shetland ponies are perhaps the best ponies for young children. If you get thrown off, it is not far to the ground, and the ponies are extremely kid-friendly, to the extent that they will allow their young master to do anything with them--as long as they are kindly treated. For an adult, you should get a horse such as a Quarter Horse or Morgan. For a middle-aged child, you may want a small horse. The child would outgrow a pony too quickly. On the other hand, do not get a Quarter Horse for a small child, even though they may be gentle. The horse is simply too large for the child. The child needs something he or she can manage, and he or she cannot manage a large horse as easily as a pony their size.
5. What breed?
Breed does not really matter, but there are breeds that are generally naturally gentle, such as the Morgan, Quarter Horse, and Shetland Pony. Such breeds as Thoroughbreds and Arabians are too fractious.
6. Overall Temperament
A horse should seem very calm, but extremely alert. They should be good around other horses, because a bossy horse can be quite some trouble.
III. What You Should do Before You Buy
First, examine the horse. If you wish to have a show horse, check that the conformation is good (explained under "Conformation" in this encyclopedia). Next, touch the horse's belly, legs, head, rump, and everywhere else, to see if there are any touchy places. Open the mouth. A horse that is too touchy may not be good for a novice. Check the horse's overall health. Pinch skin between your fingers on the neck. If it springs immediately back into place, the horse has passed this test. If not, or if it springs slowly back into place, the horse may be dehydrated. If the horse allows you to open his/her mouth, press your finger against the horse's gums and take it away. The blood capillaries should immediately return to the gums. If they don't, the horse may be sick. Check for scars. Have the horse trotted toward you and away from you or have them turned in a tight, fast circle to the left and right to check for lameness. If the horse's head bobs up and down excessively, (it will go down with the injured leg and come up with the uninjured leg) have the leg checked for lameness before buying. A lame horse won't do you any good except for being a companion. You'll never be able to ride it. Then, lead the horse yourself. Turn them this way and that and back them up. If they show some resistance, they may be disrespectful and be a nuisance later. Disrespectful horses are hard to work with. Finally, see how the horse is with other horses, and with children if you plan to give it to a child. If the horse is broke, you may want to ride it. If you are allowed to do so, try walking in figure eights, trotting in figure eights, and cantering in figure eights. If you will use the horse for jumping, try jumping it. The reason figure eights are best is because it proves to you that the horse will not break out of a circle if asked not to do so. The horse should be very light on reins, and it should not take much at all for you to turn them or whoa them. Also, back them up. The turns should be cut cleanly by the horse. You should only need a loose rein on the horse, which means that when trotting, for example, the rein is really loose, and you needn't pull back on it or kick the horse, because they will continue trotting all day as long as you want them to. A horse like this is super grand.
Overall, use your good judgement to choose your horse. Don't get too excited and over-ambitious just because the horse is cheap, the breed and sex are correct, etc. It's the temperament that matters, not anything else, because you'll only be able to live with a certain temperament.
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Conformation
Conformation is the term given to the overall appearance of a horse; the bone structure underneath. A show horse should have good conformation, so that they appear good in front of a judge. Here is the simple way to tell how your horse's conformation is:
1. The Head
The head should be small and compact. If you were to take the head, and place it inside the shoulder, would you have room to spare? If so, your horse has a good overall head.
The eyes should be set far apart from each other. The farther apart they are, the smarter and more intelligent the horse is. The corners of the eyes should be clean and relatively dry. Wrinkles above the eyes show a calm horse. Hollows above the eyes show age. There should be no scars on the eyes.
The ears should be cleanly cut, not too small, not too large, and should appear to fit the head.
The nostrils should be clean and dry. If they are wet, the horse is probably allergic to dust. The lips should be firmly held in place with each other, and not drooping. There should be no scars around the muzzle.
2. The Forepart
The neck should be long. A short neck indicates a puller. As a guide, you should be able to draw a line from the top of the neck to the girth, and one from the girth to the top of the hindquarters. The lines should be about the same length.
The shoulders should be large and well-muscled. If you go to the front of the horse, you should be able to fit a ball cap in between the two front legs. The space should be no smaller and no larger.
The forelegs should be fairly long, and the knees should be very clean and round. Knobby knees are unsightly, and generally indicate an older horse. Viewed from the front, the forelegs should be absolutely straight, not toed in or toed out.
3. The Backpart
The top of the hindquarters should meet the level that the top of the withers meet, perhaps slightly lower. The hindquarters should be well-muscled, but not as robust as the shoulders. The hind legs should be well-boned, and their should be plenty of bone on the hock. The feet may toe out slightly, but never toe in. The legs should be straight.
If your horse meets these qualities, it has good conformation. Who knows? You may not know it, but perhaps you have a show horse on your hands!!!
1. The Head
The head should be small and compact. If you were to take the head, and place it inside the shoulder, would you have room to spare? If so, your horse has a good overall head.
The eyes should be set far apart from each other. The farther apart they are, the smarter and more intelligent the horse is. The corners of the eyes should be clean and relatively dry. Wrinkles above the eyes show a calm horse. Hollows above the eyes show age. There should be no scars on the eyes.
The ears should be cleanly cut, not too small, not too large, and should appear to fit the head.
The nostrils should be clean and dry. If they are wet, the horse is probably allergic to dust. The lips should be firmly held in place with each other, and not drooping. There should be no scars around the muzzle.
2. The Forepart
The neck should be long. A short neck indicates a puller. As a guide, you should be able to draw a line from the top of the neck to the girth, and one from the girth to the top of the hindquarters. The lines should be about the same length.
The shoulders should be large and well-muscled. If you go to the front of the horse, you should be able to fit a ball cap in between the two front legs. The space should be no smaller and no larger.
The forelegs should be fairly long, and the knees should be very clean and round. Knobby knees are unsightly, and generally indicate an older horse. Viewed from the front, the forelegs should be absolutely straight, not toed in or toed out.
3. The Backpart
The top of the hindquarters should meet the level that the top of the withers meet, perhaps slightly lower. The hindquarters should be well-muscled, but not as robust as the shoulders. The hind legs should be well-boned, and their should be plenty of bone on the hock. The feet may toe out slightly, but never toe in. The legs should be straight.
If your horse meets these qualities, it has good conformation. Who knows? You may not know it, but perhaps you have a show horse on your hands!!!
Feeding & Watering
A normal, 1200 pound horse can be fed one scoopful of grain a day, and one flake of hay in morning and night in the warm months, and two flakes, in morning and night in the cold months. Ask a horseman or veterinarian if you need to make adjustments.
A flake of hay is about 1 or 2 inches thick. Hay tends to come of in slices. Each slice is a flake.
The scoopful can generally be a coffee can. Not the very large size--just the normal size. If you ride the horse nearly every day, give a scoopful in the morning and a scoopful at night.
A Miniature horse or small pony can be given half of the rations a 1200 pound horse is given.
As I said, ask a veterinarian to be sure.
Watering is simple. Be sure your horse always has fresh water. Always wash all backwash, etc. out of the stall water bowls before refilling them. Pasture water should be washed out fairly regularly, but not as regularly. The reason it should be, is because this prevents disease.
A 1200 pound horse generally drinks from 10-20 gallons of water a day; hot days, obviously, they drink more, so be sure your horse always has enough water.
A flake of hay is about 1 or 2 inches thick. Hay tends to come of in slices. Each slice is a flake.
The scoopful can generally be a coffee can. Not the very large size--just the normal size. If you ride the horse nearly every day, give a scoopful in the morning and a scoopful at night.
A Miniature horse or small pony can be given half of the rations a 1200 pound horse is given.
As I said, ask a veterinarian to be sure.
Watering is simple. Be sure your horse always has fresh water. Always wash all backwash, etc. out of the stall water bowls before refilling them. Pasture water should be washed out fairly regularly, but not as regularly. The reason it should be, is because this prevents disease.
A 1200 pound horse generally drinks from 10-20 gallons of water a day; hot days, obviously, they drink more, so be sure your horse always has enough water.
Mucking Out
Mucking out is the term given to cleaning a stall. A dirty stall, an unhealthy horse. That is why we must keep the stall in tip-top shape. You should clean the stall every morning and every evening, to keep the horse happy and healthy.
Bring in your wheelbarrow or bucket and pitchfork or apple picker. The horse should either be tied outside the stall or turned out into the pasture. Some people tie the horse inside the stall, but it is sometimes hard to get the stall absolutely clean this way.
For everyday work, pick up the droppings and clean out most of the wet bedding. Replace bedding as needed. If the floor is concrete, the bedding should always be at least 6 in. high. You can use rubber mats on a concrete floor, however--this saves bedding, as the rubber mats help to give the horse a lot of comfort. If the floor is dirt, you obviously do not need much bedding, because dirt is almost bedding enough.
Every now and then, when the stall seems very dirty, no matter how much you remove, use a shovel to remove all of the bedding and replace it with new bedding.
Place all your manure in a manure pile, far away from your house or barn. Some people like to work a manure pile to make it better for fertilizing fields. You can look this up and do it, but it is much easier to just dump the manure onto the pile.
Bring in your wheelbarrow or bucket and pitchfork or apple picker. The horse should either be tied outside the stall or turned out into the pasture. Some people tie the horse inside the stall, but it is sometimes hard to get the stall absolutely clean this way.
For everyday work, pick up the droppings and clean out most of the wet bedding. Replace bedding as needed. If the floor is concrete, the bedding should always be at least 6 in. high. You can use rubber mats on a concrete floor, however--this saves bedding, as the rubber mats help to give the horse a lot of comfort. If the floor is dirt, you obviously do not need much bedding, because dirt is almost bedding enough.
Every now and then, when the stall seems very dirty, no matter how much you remove, use a shovel to remove all of the bedding and replace it with new bedding.
Place all your manure in a manure pile, far away from your house or barn. Some people like to work a manure pile to make it better for fertilizing fields. You can look this up and do it, but it is much easier to just dump the manure onto the pile.
Sickness
A sick horse carries its head low. Its eyes are not bright, it is not alert or attentive, and it may refuse to move or you may be able to see its ribs. Always call a vet, if you are not certain what the horse has. Here are some diseases and their symptoms:
Colic--If a horse has colic, they will kick at their stomach and frantically roll. Colic is often fatal, because it is a stomachache and a horse cannot vomit, so call a vet immediately.
Founder--Founder, or laminitis, is a disease of the hoof. A horse gets this when they eat too much. They will not want to walk, or at least will walk stiffly, and may appear rather large. A vet will prescribe what they need. Founder can sometimes be fatal.
Lime Disease--This comes from a tick. The horse will be sore and stiff. Call a vet immediately, as a horse can die from lime disease.
Mites--Ear mites are the most common mite. You can get medicine from your vet.
Ring Worm--Ring worm is a fungus. You should get medicine from a vet.
Worms--A horse needs to be wormed every two or three months. The pasture and stall need to be very clean. A horse with worms will show ribs, even if they eat normally or even eat more. Buy medicine from your local livestock store or from your vet.
This is certainly not all of the diseases a horse can get, but they are the most common. Use your good judgment in choosing whether or not a vet is needed.
Colic--If a horse has colic, they will kick at their stomach and frantically roll. Colic is often fatal, because it is a stomachache and a horse cannot vomit, so call a vet immediately.
Founder--Founder, or laminitis, is a disease of the hoof. A horse gets this when they eat too much. They will not want to walk, or at least will walk stiffly, and may appear rather large. A vet will prescribe what they need. Founder can sometimes be fatal.
Lime Disease--This comes from a tick. The horse will be sore and stiff. Call a vet immediately, as a horse can die from lime disease.
Mites--Ear mites are the most common mite. You can get medicine from your vet.
Ring Worm--Ring worm is a fungus. You should get medicine from a vet.
Worms--A horse needs to be wormed every two or three months. The pasture and stall need to be very clean. A horse with worms will show ribs, even if they eat normally or even eat more. Buy medicine from your local livestock store or from your vet.
This is certainly not all of the diseases a horse can get, but they are the most common. Use your good judgment in choosing whether or not a vet is needed.
Supplies: Brushes, Tack, Water Bowls, Bedding, and Feed Accessories
Of course you will need supplies for your horse. We will start with brushes.
In order to brush the way that I do, you will need:
Dandy Brush
Body Brush
Rubber Curry Comb
Metal Curry Comb
Soft Body Brush
Hoof Pick
Face Brush
Mane & Tail Comb
Sponges
The only things that are absolutely necessary:
Dandy Brush
Body Brush
Hoof Pick
You will also need tack. Choosing the correct ones is described in "Tack:"
Saddle
Bridle/Hackamore
Halter
6 ft. Lead Line
You'll need supplies to care for your tack:
Sponges
Saddle Soap
You'll also need water bowls & food accessories:
1 water bowl for each stall; at least 1 very large water bowl for each pasture
Metal food bin
Grain (this is preferred to sweet feed, oats, etc.)
Hay
You'll want to make the stall quite comfortable:
Straw, sawdust, wood chips, shredded (unprinted) paper, etc.
Rubber mats (optional)
Apple picker or pitchfork
Wheelbarrow or large bucket
Once you get these accessories, you are well on your way to being able to own a horse. And of course there are luxeries and enjoyable things along the way; such as blankets or fly nets, or fly spray even. But these are not necessary in the keeping of a horse, and therefore, you do not need them.
In order to brush the way that I do, you will need:
Dandy Brush
Body Brush
Rubber Curry Comb
Metal Curry Comb
Soft Body Brush
Hoof Pick
Face Brush
Mane & Tail Comb
Sponges
The only things that are absolutely necessary:
Dandy Brush
Body Brush
Hoof Pick
You will also need tack. Choosing the correct ones is described in "Tack:"
Saddle
Bridle/Hackamore
Halter
6 ft. Lead Line
You'll need supplies to care for your tack:
Sponges
Saddle Soap
You'll also need water bowls & food accessories:
1 water bowl for each stall; at least 1 very large water bowl for each pasture
Metal food bin
Grain (this is preferred to sweet feed, oats, etc.)
Hay
You'll want to make the stall quite comfortable:
Straw, sawdust, wood chips, shredded (unprinted) paper, etc.
Rubber mats (optional)
Apple picker or pitchfork
Wheelbarrow or large bucket
Once you get these accessories, you are well on your way to being able to own a horse. And of course there are luxeries and enjoyable things along the way; such as blankets or fly nets, or fly spray even. But these are not necessary in the keeping of a horse, and therefore, you do not need them.
Tack
Choosing the correct tack is essential. You need to decide whether you will ride Western or English. No matter which you choose, the next paragraphs apply to each.
Blankets:
When choosing blankets, or numnahs, you can use this simple test to see if the blanket/numnah is thick enough. You should be able to place your thumb on top and your middle finger on bottom, and you should be able to press and not feel the other finger. Your horse will have ensured comfort that way, and your horse will certainly not get saddle sore.
When choosing the saddle, choose what best fits you and your horse.
When choosing the bridle, choose a bridle with a gentle, true snaffle bit and with leather or nylon headstall. You can choose the reins, because you may have preferences. A hackamore is a bitless bridle. A horse that flings their head and does not respond well to a snaffle bit may not need a bigger bit, but rather a hackamore.
Choose a good halter. The best halters are hand-tied yacht rope ones, available at parelli.com and sometimes available on ebay.com. These rope halters prevent a horse from leaning on them, but can get a horse to yield easily.
As far as lead lines go, choose whatever. You may want something soft, to help prevent rope burn. You should use a 6 ft. line, because it allows distance between you and your horse.
Use common sense.
Blankets:
When choosing blankets, or numnahs, you can use this simple test to see if the blanket/numnah is thick enough. You should be able to place your thumb on top and your middle finger on bottom, and you should be able to press and not feel the other finger. Your horse will have ensured comfort that way, and your horse will certainly not get saddle sore.
When choosing the saddle, choose what best fits you and your horse.
When choosing the bridle, choose a bridle with a gentle, true snaffle bit and with leather or nylon headstall. You can choose the reins, because you may have preferences. A hackamore is a bitless bridle. A horse that flings their head and does not respond well to a snaffle bit may not need a bigger bit, but rather a hackamore.
Choose a good halter. The best halters are hand-tied yacht rope ones, available at parelli.com and sometimes available on ebay.com. These rope halters prevent a horse from leaning on them, but can get a horse to yield easily.
As far as lead lines go, choose whatever. You may want something soft, to help prevent rope burn. You should use a 6 ft. line, because it allows distance between you and your horse.
Use common sense.
Troubleshooting
What exactly do you mean, troubleshooting?
Here is what I mean: no horse is perfect. They either have temperament faults, conformation faults, or bad habits.
Explained in this article are a few of the temperament faults and all of the recognized bad habits. Conformation faults are explained in "conformation."
Two of the most common temperament faults are:
Disrespect, therefore a bad attitude
Fear and shyness
Disrespect comes from a horse that thinks he or she is King or Queen of the Hilltop, or at least king of his domain. They will not do as you say without using a whip or some other harsh method. These horses must be taught respect.
Fear and shyness comes from a horse that knows you are a predator, and therefore absolutely fears you. This horse will likely be hard to catch. They do as asked, but always with a quick motion, and always with fear in their eyes. You must win their confidence.
The recognized bad habits are:
Cribbing
Chewing
Weaving
Stall Kicking
A horse may fall into any habit, such as tossing the head, dancing on their toes, etc., but these are the recognized habits.
Cribbing is when a horse takes hold of something, such as wood, and sucks air through its lungs. This is bad for a horse's health. A cribbing collar should be purchased, as all habits are tough to cure.
Chewing is undesirable. The horse will chew wood down, so that it must be replaced. This can result in splinters.
Weaving is when a horse places its head over something, such as a stall door or fence, and sways back and forth. This is not good on the horse's legs.
Stall kicking is when a horse kicks their stall, often kicking out the walls so that they must be replaced. This type of horse will need to be kept in a paddock or pasture.
All vices, or bad habits, come from boredom or frustration, or both. Keep your horse active by doing a lot with it, or keep it out in the pasture with other horses. You can keep your horse active in a stall by giving them hay in a hay net. The hay net makes it harder for the hay to be removed, therefore you will not make your horse fat. Even so, give them plenty of exercise if you do this. Some horses, especially young horses, like to play with a ball. You can purchase a ball to hang from the ceiling of your horse's stall.
Remember that there is no such thing as a perfect horse!!
Here is what I mean: no horse is perfect. They either have temperament faults, conformation faults, or bad habits.
Explained in this article are a few of the temperament faults and all of the recognized bad habits. Conformation faults are explained in "conformation."
Two of the most common temperament faults are:
Disrespect, therefore a bad attitude
Fear and shyness
Disrespect comes from a horse that thinks he or she is King or Queen of the Hilltop, or at least king of his domain. They will not do as you say without using a whip or some other harsh method. These horses must be taught respect.
Fear and shyness comes from a horse that knows you are a predator, and therefore absolutely fears you. This horse will likely be hard to catch. They do as asked, but always with a quick motion, and always with fear in their eyes. You must win their confidence.
The recognized bad habits are:
Cribbing
Chewing
Weaving
Stall Kicking
A horse may fall into any habit, such as tossing the head, dancing on their toes, etc., but these are the recognized habits.
Cribbing is when a horse takes hold of something, such as wood, and sucks air through its lungs. This is bad for a horse's health. A cribbing collar should be purchased, as all habits are tough to cure.
Chewing is undesirable. The horse will chew wood down, so that it must be replaced. This can result in splinters.
Weaving is when a horse places its head over something, such as a stall door or fence, and sways back and forth. This is not good on the horse's legs.
Stall kicking is when a horse kicks their stall, often kicking out the walls so that they must be replaced. This type of horse will need to be kept in a paddock or pasture.
All vices, or bad habits, come from boredom or frustration, or both. Keep your horse active by doing a lot with it, or keep it out in the pasture with other horses. You can keep your horse active in a stall by giving them hay in a hay net. The hay net makes it harder for the hay to be removed, therefore you will not make your horse fat. Even so, give them plenty of exercise if you do this. Some horses, especially young horses, like to play with a ball. You can purchase a ball to hang from the ceiling of your horse's stall.
Remember that there is no such thing as a perfect horse!!
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